As for the Chimp’s enabler, I freaked out another guest at a superb 50th-birthday party in the Asian Den at Ruby Foo’s uptown when I told her he was more than just a travesty of a restaurant reviewer. She had no idea. The service was so hyper-attentive I might have had more than my share of wine, though, because I can’t remember if I also passed on the amazing gossip I heard about his partner in late-night teevee viewing. Adam, meet apple. . .