Since it’s getting into the saccharine season, I’ll temper all this by noting the WSJ ran an oddly timed (after turkeys have been cooked to jerky) but very enlightening piece on kitchen math. The advice on measuring various salts alone was worth it. But my cranky side also demands to be heard: How can sections as sloppy as (Gr)Eater New York and as polished as Off Duty possibly come from the same newsroom? I read the former to count copy-editing and food mistakes, the latter to marvel at the slickness and genuine hipness. It’s even getting smarter. Slow Food Fast still uses recipes calling for grapes. But they no longer need peeling, only smart roasting. . .