Speaking of which, the saddest new measurement turning up in recipes this Thanksgiving is the “sleeve” — some call for half a sleeve of Lorna Doones, others for a full sleeve of Ritz crackers etc. What kind of honest cook uses processed crap for a tart crust or anything else, especially on the one day of the year when there is no excuse for not doing food up right? Oh. I know. Someone whose next book is probably all about shortcut cooking, a k a “a can of this, a box of that,” which will keep the anti-Dash ads coming. We are all semi-ho-made now.