NPR the other morning dredged up a real marron on Marseille, with a predictable feature on bouillabaisse. I will say experiencing the proper thing there belongs on any list of the top quadrillion things you definitely need to do before you kick off. But the piece was not only tired but oddly disconnected. Even as I was listening, I was reading a news item about an attack on the Roma in that very city. Given that Marseille is apparently coping better with immigration than most French cities, what about, say, immigrants’ tastes? Surely someone is serving falafel with rouille.