File this 30th-anniversary take under: Dither and miss a scoop. Learned only after it was published that the big story was not the basement but the changeover. . .
These days I would not cross the street for the most famous chef on the planet, whichever one of dozens he might be. But nearly 20 years ago my consort and I heard Edna Lewis was cooking in Brooklyn and headed straight to Gage & Tollner on Fulton Mall, certain the reward would be a meal for the memory books.
It was a different time, but Edna Lewis was a very different celebrity chef. Regional American cooking had only recently been codified, and she was to Southern cooking what Alice Waters was to Californian, what Paul Prudhomme was to Cajun. Read the rest of this entry »
A little thing I typed (too fast) about the amazing Peter Workman. “Workmanlike” should be highest praise after him.