Archive for the ‘food forward’ Category

Bitters. And Armenian sweets

April 2016

News in plain sight: A great store just got greater.

Local, all-natural, free-range . . .

January 2014

Hunters Sharing the Harvest is a threefer: Along with feeding the hungry and culling the out-of-control deer herd, it gives gun owners a hard-to-argue-with reason to own guns. (Also, too: Al Jazeera America and Bob Sacha are amazing collaborators.)

Panna cotta, senza zucchero

November 2009

Weekend Kitchen, for the late & lamented Metropolitan Home.

One word: Lard

June 2009

Wait long enough and everything bad for you is good again.

The fifth dimension

August 2007

Metropolitan Home

In the age of molecular gastronomy, the whole language of cooking is changing fast. Tradition-flouting chefs are throwing around such terms as osmosis and desiccation and sous-vide, all of which are fine and kitchen-scientific. But the most important new word is actually as accessible to home cooks as it is to wizards of foam: Umami. (more…)

Old, and new again

July 2007

Metropolitan Home

Fresh ricotta is the overlooked bonus from the great American cheese revolution over the last 20 years. (more…)

Wanted: cave manager

April 2007

Los Angeles Times

Five years ago, it would be safe to say, not a soul in California woke up each morning to a to-do list starting with: Review a restaurant for Michelin. (more…)

The taste of things to come

January 2007

Los Angeles Times

MILAN, Italy — Think of Italy, and wild and crazy exchanges of cooking ideas are not what come to mind first. This is a country where each and every region is a world apart; the Tuscans in the center might as well be on Mars for all the interaction with the Piemontese to the northwest.

Which makes the frenzy of Identità Golose (literally “greedy identity”) all the more extraordinary. (more…)

Our brilliant blues

November 2006

Los Angeles Times 

David Gremmels and Cary Bryant could be considered the accidental cheese makers.

Three years ago they were scouting for blue cheese (more…)

Voting with their forks

June 2006

Los Angeles Times

Summer is supposed to be the mindless season, with nothing deeper to contemplate than the instant gratification of barbecues and ice cream. But something is different this year. America is getting serious about eating. (more…)