Archive for the ‘New York City’ Category

Bitters. And Armenian sweets

April 2016

News in plain sight: A great store just got greater.

On the trail of meat without borders

October 2015

Goat in a city of immigrants . . .

Shades of cocoa

July 2014

A great butcher shop I undersold; pictures are worth a few thousand words. And a great video that will be undercompensated.


In praise of the anti-Deen

August 2013

These days I would not cross the street for the most famous chef on the planet, whichever one of dozens he might be. But nearly 20 years ago my consort and I heard Edna Lewis was cooking in Brooklyn and headed straight to Gage & Tollner on Fulton Mall, certain the reward would be a meal for the memory books.

It was a different time, but Edna Lewis was a very different celebrity chef. Regional American cooking had only recently been codified, and she was to Southern cooking what Alice Waters was to Californian, what Paul Prudhomme was to Cajun. (more…)

As the grief orgy nears . . .

August 2011

Guess it’s time to re-link a little too much I did for The Awl (“Be Less Stupid”).

Edible Brooklyn: Less at Moore Street?

June 2008

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