New York minutes/End of October 2008
The good: Mermaid Inn uptown, where my consort treated me to a last supper before the chainsaw and where the food, service and price were just what we needed. I usually avoid trout like the real chicken of the sea, but it was the best bet on the restricted plan I was on, and it was saved by a plethora of herbs and lemon roasted inside. The mashed potatoes I substituted with it were outstanding; Bob was totally happy with his skate with roasted potatoes and chorizo. WIGB? Repeatedly. 568 Amsterdam Avenue near 88th Street.
The bad: Cafe Luka on the Upper East Side, where I stupidly retreated for a “real” lunch between appointments. A guy standing out front volunteered that he had just eaten there and it was good and fast, which was all I wanted. But the Reuben (a special) was industrial meat under a cheese-like substance that was barely cheese-like, and the potato salad with it was unnerving. To call the aftermath intestinal distress would be like describing a four-car pile-up as a fender-bender.
The great, again: The New French, where I went first for a cheeseburger alone, then back three days later for a steak salad with my consort since doctor’s orders were to eat meat and put on some LBs. The burger was easily the best I’ve ever had, perfectly cooked, topped with caramelized onions and three pickle slices and teamed with not just a huge heap of exceptional fries but a spicy aioli. And the steak salad was just totally happy-making, great meat seared right and laid over Romaine, French green beans, potatoes, hard-cooked egg and sweet peppers in anchovy vinaigrette. I’d rave more but am out of time. Just WIGB? No question. 522 Hudson Street at Tenth, 212 807 7357.