No churro left behind

If I had a peso for every restaurant critic’s lament that New York has no good Mexican, I would be able to afford three or four casas down in San Miguel de Allende, where my consort is off teaching workshops and where I decided the cuisine has to be Ex/Mex (for expatriate Americans). This is a city where most paid evaluators still have trouble telling a taco from a tortilla (let me count the mixups), but they consider themselves qualified to micturate all over most any place that opens. If good Mexican landed in a UFO, would they even be able to describe it? I was weaned on tamales and empanadas in Arizona and would have trouble. And I’m no expert on Thai, but at least that is a cuisine originating halfway around the world. Enchiladas are right next door. For chorizo’s sake, you natterers: Get your bosses to underwrite you a standard of comparison before you write the whole cuisine off.


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