Get ready for more instances of restaurant critics apparently eating a single snail, or for more subject-verb disputes like “component . . . matter.” Word is that one of the few Gray Ghosts I both liked and respected is sacrificing his smarts and his institutional memory early for the sake of the bottom line. You gotta wonder about an industry that adopts essentially a first-hired, first-fired policy and wonders why business is hurtin’. The best pate is never made by the newest garde manger.