And not to kick one birdcage liner too hard, but miracle fruit looks to be the Tasmanian devil of food news. I read about those poor creatures and their contagious cancer first in Harper’s, then on the Guardian, then on the front page of the Journal. This “scoop” seems to be traveling in the opposite direction. Coming soon: Artichokes will muck up the taste of your wine! Oh, and that ricotta? I guess chefs must read Metropolitan Home from way back. And the good ones traverse the Greenmarket rather than making Polly-O facsimiles themselves.