Relish is not a magazine where I expect to come across any Elizabeth David-level gracefulness, but I was still stopped cold by this: “As a Mexican food ambassador, he beats Taco Bell’s talking Chihuahua hands down.” Now there’s a contest: trained chef with seriously endowed genes versus crap-food cartoon — what else could result but a knockout without a pawito lifted? I guess it could have been clumsier, though. The Latinizer could have could have trotted out an allusion to Montezuma’s revenge.