In a sane world, all food writers would skip the big “Fancy Food Show” at the Javits Center and just wait for the nice slick magazine showcasing all the edited highlights a couple of months later. From what I can tell, you don’t even need to taste the products. I kinda liked macaroni and cheese with lobster when I had a forkful among 30,000 other tastes at the show, so I was happy to see it get a belated shout-out after the helpfully organized magazine arrived in the mail. Similarly, I could see in context why a decadent packaging program for spices seized several awards: When you’re talking fancy, concept trumps practicality every time. I liked those dosage packets enough to write them up for my editors, but they apparently did the math and the geometry: A teaspoon priced like a quarter-bottle really is more than ridiculous, and 16 tins are way too many for the average kitchen.