On a similar topic, consider the case of the celebrity chef from a beleaguered city who signed on to promote hometown products at a strange event up north. E-cynics may denigrate him, but hey, he is the biggest name going, and he lured me out. What a letdown to experience his alleged magic touch. The redfish was overcooked in bland liquid, redeemed only by chunks of the kind of crab you so rarely come across here. And the “boudin balls” were made with andouille rather than the real deal; the funky flavor came from chicken liver. It was a very long way from Eunice. But at least I learned why the touted product line is turning up even in my neighborhood Food Shitty: The company sold out to Big Food. And the star sold out for a boxed mix. I never understand how chefs can undervalue their reputations for deals like this, even when their beleaguered city benefits, but I guess that’s because I don’t have four restaurants to support me.