I’m sure Holy Foods will sic its flack on me for this, but I actually stopped in the store off the Bowery the other day mostly to warm up but partly because I saw a blackboard sign on the sidewalk touting virtuous arctic char on sale and figured I could pick some up for dinner. So I wended my way to the seafood counter, where an even bigger sign in front was attached to a display stacked with leaflets on the many wonders of arctic char. And I waited, while the clerk wrapped up some fatigued-looking salmon for another woman, even though the case held nothing that vaguely resembled the catch of the day. When I asked, the kid just said, “We don’t have any.” “But you have big signs advertising it.” “Maybe tomorrow.” Okay. It was no big deal except it really just epitomizes what the chain is all about. If the product matched the marketing, fish could fly.