I did my turkey cover story seven years ago and pissed off a few editors by noting both the artifice and similarity of all their birds. But even I was not cynical enough to imagine the day would come when the editorial side would admit to doing what’s forbidden in an ad: altering reality. Funny to realize the Butterball breast is the real deal. Also funny that the one magazine omitted from the silly piece was the one named launch of the year. You really have to wonder about the hall of mirrors of television successfully expanding into formerly arboreal media even as people are still weeping over the demise of Gourmet. I haven’t been able to locate a copy, but I see online what the secret is: The turkey issue has three covers. Which means readers can change the channel.