Once we were Benetton’s

Every time I walk out of the new Holy Foods I keep thinking about that old definition of a conservative: A liberal who’s been mugged. All it took for me to abandon my disdain was having a store move closer to me in this food desert. Neighbors keep stopping me, and friends keep emailing me, to ask if they can shop there in good conscience, and I happily admit I’ve crossed over to the other side, not least because it’s such a great antidote to the invasion of the Subways and Dunkin’s in the neighborhood. But my consort and I got into a near-tiff over the honcho’s ill-advised attitude toward health insurance reform, and I won by saying I have no idea what the politics are of any other local merchant we support so enthusiastically. Not to mention: If the farmers from the Greenmarket are going to patronize it, so can we — if this is what a new-age mugging is like, I’ll have another organic, local, sustainable Kool-Aid, please.

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