Twice lately, at Zabar’s and at Holy Foods, I have passed tasting tables where slices of cheese were being offered under something fruity and have felt rather sad. How quickly a brilliant concept devolves into typical American raspberry-chocolate-ranch-Dorito panini. It’s not just fast food that has fattened this country. It’s bastardization and trend mashups. A great cheese is great on its own. It doesn’t necessarily need frosting. But tell that to the people who will wind up schmearing Smucker’s over Kraft’s best. . .