Archive for February, 2010

Little pictures

February 2010

I know nothing about frying pigskins, but I do know a story on the whole trend might want to at least mention why you should start from scratch: The crap in stores is pretty fucking scary. Of course that exposé ran in the paper that also reported on the horrible downside to better food in more casual settings at a lower price point: Bedlam R Us. And also ran photographic evidence of what a French friend who doesn’t get fat noted: Houston is home to America’s fattest Americans. It was all almost enough to give the paper a pass on sliding closer and closer to Faux News in print. No wonder its MoDo is guzzling all the gin she can ingest.

Pig bladders at Daniel? Exempt.

February 2010

The talk of the series of culi-tubes is all about Robert Sietsema’s take on old-versus-new restaurant “reviewing.” I’m kinda weary of the whole debate (although I can still be challenged to rouse myself to start frothing, and I do wonder how much a legit franchise undermines itself in assigning hits to hired guns). I mostly was mystified by the omission of the one guy who always made NYmag worth reading, the inimitable Seymour Britchky, who was, even as RS arrived in town all those eons ago, brilliantly evaluating restaurants serving 23 cuisines, from American to Thai, with some barely seen these days. (Can you say German? And is there a Swiss or Hungarian kitchen left?) Plus I had other issues that just wear me out to contemplate. So I’m happy to report that the outlier actually did the world a much huger service by stunting something I would never even contemplate: Pop the top on one of the Onion-worthy new flavors of cat food and sticking a forchetta in it. No wonder The Cat WCTLWAFW hoovers nearly everything I cook. The alternative is tasteless. And almost more expensive.

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