Speaking of top chefs, though, I increasingly wonder why, whenever they’re interviewed about what they like to eat, no one ever asks about aspirational food. I was guilty of that with Danny Meyer once (Popeye’s), but these days people seem to need far more knowledge about what’s possible on the plate, not about low-end pleasures. It’s no surprise everyone eats crap. What’s the best thing at the top of the food chain? I would rather J-G, say, admit he loves the foie gras marble on that menu more than a Taco Bell Crunchwrap Supreme. Maybe it’s all part of a culture where 2 percent of the population controls like 90 percent of the wealth, and it makes people with restaurants all over the world safely sound like jes’ folks. We should all shut up and eat our buffet lasagne; it’s what the Trumps do.