And I’ve had more than a few regrets, but not eating at elBulli is definitely not among them. I’ve written about this before, but the hostage situation my consort and I endured at Tetsuya in Oz was the tipping point for that sort of experience — we were begging the waiters to let us skip courses, and not because the food was underwhelming. Even with the most dazzling creations, even a trained palate has limits. There’s titillation. And then there’s Spanish fly.