Admittedly, I’m not sure there is any way at this point to persuade people to give up meat. But the latest argument printed in the $2-a-day birdcage liner really was an insult to thinking cooks everywhere. A rural grocery store is the new cab driver as the new barometer of a country’s condition? Sentences you need to drop crumbs through to find your way out? This had all the depth and grace of an extended recipe intro. Forget phoning it in. The new sin is texting it in.