Finally, for all my bitchiness, I am very impressed by this new generation of chefs ignoring the whoring route and instead focusing on what they do best. Anyone who has never eaten in Oz will probably not understand how momentous it is that David Chang’s outpost was just named the hottest restaurant on that continent. I ate my way through Sydney/Melbourne so long ago Saddam was still believed to have yellowcake, but even then the food scene was extraordinary. And it’s rather awesome that a New Yorker has beaten them at their own game. All that said, I’ll now go back to storing up bile . . .