I didn’t read the whole book, only a magazine excerpt that was more than enough, but I had to agree with my more conscientious comrade in cynicism about the food world memoir now getting latex glove treatment by countless reviewers. I’ve been on both sides of the desk for decades now, and the awful truth is that even extraordinarily brilliant editors do not always make even halfway-scintillating writers. Words like cozy that would be slashed from lazy writers’ copy tend to get overused, just for starters. But it’s fascinating to watch everyone fall in line with unqualified accolades. It’s a big house. Who wants to get shut out?