Low, slow and succulent

Los Angeles Times

A new oven is being billed as the greatest invention since the discovery of fire itself. This high-tech contraption, seemingly a cross between a furnace and a microwave, allegedly can roast a whole rack of lamb in 6 1/2 minutes flat. Which sounds impressive if all you want is chops on the table in less time than you would need to set it.Continue reading →

The taste of things to come

Los Angeles Times

MILAN, Italy — Think of Italy, and wild and crazy exchanges of cooking ideas are not what come to mind first. This is a country where each and every region is a world apart; the Tuscans in the center might as well be on Mars for all the interaction with the Piemontese to the northwest.

Which makes the frenzy of Identità Golose (literally “greedy identity”) all the more extraordinary.Continue reading →

Soulmates: Pasta meets cheese

Los Angeles Times

Back in the last century, an Italian sommelier who became a friend spent a fair amount of time in my kitchen, much of it insisting that nearly every iconic American food was made not just first but better in the country of his birth. Apple pie? They had it at crostata. Grilled cheese? Mozzarella en carrozza was the Model A. Meatloaf? They call it polpettone.Continue reading →

Essence of sage

Los Angeles Times

Nostalgia is not one of my weaknesses, but whenever I pick up a bunch of fresh sage this time of year it takes me back big time. I grew up in Arizona, and in my mind eons later it seems as if one scent was always in the air there. Continue reading →