Out of semi-retirement (& not just me)
January 2020My kind of interview: Great subject, no phone involved.
Archive for the ‘New York City’ Category
When global met local
October 2017A chef with her own great story is expanding Kalustyan’s cornucopia by buying close to home.
A seed catalog, come to life
October 2017I always thought Jeff and Adina Bialas do couture farming. The story turned out to be richer than that.
Bitters. And Armenian sweets
April 2016News in plain sight: A great store just got greater.
Shades of cocoa
July 2014A great butcher shop I undersold; pictures are worth a few thousand words. And a great video that will be undercompensated.
In praise of the anti-Deen
August 2013These days I would not cross the street for the most famous chef on the planet, whichever one of dozens he might be. But nearly 20 years ago my consort and I heard Edna Lewis was cooking in Brooklyn and headed straight to Gage & Tollner on Fulton Mall, certain the reward would be a meal for the memory books.
It was a different time, but Edna Lewis was a very different celebrity chef. Regional American cooking had only recently been codified, and she was to Southern cooking what Alice Waters was to Californian, what Paul Prudhomme was to Cajun. (more…)
As the grief orgy nears . . .
August 2011Guess it’s time to re-link a little too much I did for The Awl (“Be Less Stupid”).