Los Angeles Times
Six years ago this spring I ordered a fish for its side dish in a restaurant in Charleston, S.C., and I have not been the same since. Continue reading
TV’s longest-running hit
Los Angeles Times
Until I happened into one of those supermarkets the size of a small airport, I had written off TV dinners as the food time forgot and the decades could not have improved.Continue reading
Duck for all seasons
Los Angeles Times
As someone who cooks by the calendar, I’ve always wondered why strawberries and corn on the cob are socially acceptable any time of year while duck is usually perceived as food for fall and winter. It’s a great ingredient naturally available in any month, and yet it’s trapped in a season-warp.Continue reading
Online now:TV dinners reheated
What the glamour birds are wearing
Los Angeles Times
If all the Thanksgiving turkeys in the November magazines weren’t trussed so tightly, they would probably be writhing in embarrassment.Continue reading
Julia, unexpurgated
Written for the New York Times
Julia Child, who mastered the art of French cooking well enough to turn it into prime-time entertainment and who by introducing cassoulet to a casserole culture elevated both American food and television, died TK in TK. She had celebrated her 90th birthday in August 2002.Continue reading
Magic mushrooms
Metropolitan Home
If Ray Kroc had had Portobello mushrooms, beef cattle all around the world would be grazing easier today. Mushrooms have all the juicy flavor of meat but none of the heaviness. Grilled, topped with cheese and tucked into a bun, they make a burger so satisfying no fries are needed.
But Portobello burgers are only the most obvious example of how mushrooms can pass as meat. All the wild varieties becoming increasingly common even in supermarkets markets can go just about everywhere beef or pork or chicken can. Continue reading
Arthur Avenue
New York Times
Arthur Avenue in the Bronx cultivates the image of ”Cucina Paradiso,” complete with a booming soundtrack by Dean Martin at his sappiest. Continue reading
Brave new kitchen (no room for cooking)
New York Times
John Pawson is a name that carries as much weight in food circles as Alain Ducasse does at Home Depot. Architects instantly recognize him as a master of minimalism. But cooks, even those outfitted with everything by Alessi, are not thinking of him — or any other designer — when they light up the stove. Apparently all that is about to change.Continue reading
The real food bible
New York Times
Taste of Home is a magazine that does not print certain words. Like confit. Or microgreens, or extra virgin, or fleur de sel. Or, especially, chef.Continue reading