I could do a whole rant on how useless search engines are in searching out restaurants in this era of enshittification, especially after we schlepped to the Newark Museum of Art for two amazing exhibitions and got no clue how many options there really were “close to Penn Station.” We wound up at Sihana in the Ironbound, which was pretty great, but we soon learned the same owners had newer, more to-our-day-drinking-taste options as well. And then we walked around and saw any number of spots that would have worked.

We knew Sihana would be great when we followed two Black couples in — clearly a local destination. And I’m glad we watched what was delivered to other tables before ordering, because splitting one huge sandwich of skirt steak, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and sauce with A+ fries was the sane move. A flat white afterward was also splittable. The cafe is part eatery, part artists’ showcase, part used-book store. Newark, not like you picture it. 

The anti-Aububon show was powerful, but what really blew us away on this exhibition expedition was the newly restored and reopened Ballantine House attached to the museum. It is the first place we have toured where Black lives were presented to matter more than the rich previous occupants’. Especially the installation in the dining room. And the even more powerful one in the young son’s bedroom. WIGB? Absolutely. This was our second transporting trip.