The good: Donatella in Chelsea, where five of us were lucky enough to get seats if not our own table after finding it suddenly open on leaving “The Social Network.” The boss herself was there and sent over appetizers and desserts, but I still would have been impressed, not least because the waiter, when I asked if the music blaring from a speaker overhead could be turned down, actually listened. The pizza was much better than Keste’s and far better value than Co’s, with a great crisp crust and superb balance in the toppings, particularly the $15 diavola, with tomatoes, mozzarella, pecorino, spicy salami and chili oil. The $16 Enzo, with smoked mozzarella, pecorino, sausage and broccoli rabe, was also good. My consort’s $17 lasagna was a huge portion and nicely executed, although the cheese could have melted just a bit longer (which was also the flaw in the mozzarella in carozza, which was redeemed by the runny poached egg and truffle oil paired with it). Fried calamari was elevated by the lemon-bottarga aioli with it, and the aracini were fine. The winner on the communal table, though, was spaghettini with sea urchin and fennel, and I’m no fan of fennel — the flavors were all in harmony, and the pasta was perfectly cooked. Bonus points for the price: $18. (Point off: Bob was bummed that his leftover didn’t come home in the kitty bag.) As the waiter promised, the sfogliata was the best dessert, flaky and full of ricotta cream with orange blossom. WIGB? Absolutely. It’s a find on a boulevard of mediocrity. 184 Eighth Avenue near 20th Street, 212 493 5301.