No drilling under polar bears

One of my Paris correspondents offered excellent condolences on my passing up a night at Benoit: It’s the Mickey D of bistros, coming soon to Vegas and Dubai. But then the Eiffel Tower has been co-opted around the world. Why not a one-of-a-kind restaurant? The good news is that high-flying chefs may actually be solving a bigger problem. If they build replicas in every city, we will never have to strip down in the security line to jet off to the real deal ever again. A Bulli at every intersection? Bring ’em on!


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