Maybe revenge is tofu best served hot. I liked how the original Saucier’s Apprentice sank his shiv into Panchito so matter-of-factly. Just as I suspected, the great discovery of a great Sichuan restaurant in the garment district was exactly as informed as his assessments of any cuisine beyond steakhouse and Americanized Italian. Can you say “sloppy, indifferent rendition of the great, hearty food of the earthquake-plagued province”? And to think the lemmings still thronged there for ma po dou fu that was “muddy in flavor, beef-starved, with barely a shred of green.” Call it ambling through hysteria.

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