On the plus side of the newspaper ledger, the Delicious Duo discreetly signed off after a quarter-century of distilling advice from wine store clerks. No explanation was given, but considering how their employer is unabashedly pandering to the great unthinking these days, I would not be surprised to see their column taken over by Peggy Noonan, evaluating gin. Real patriots don’t drink gruner. Let alone Australian shiraz.