One thing that struck me in the news photos of the subway tsunami was how lardy New Yorkers have gotten. Most photos of people thronging buses could have been shot in Des Moines (if they have buses there). We must all be Americans now. And it’s no wonder, considering Bertolli has started a frozen line of pasta and the shape advertised first is “gigantoni.” Apparently there is such an entry in the noodle lexicon, but it sounds so un-Italian. Also, the label shows a glass of red wine, but you know it will be served with soda. The only wonder is that they aren’t stuffing supersized pasta with cheese, bacon and raspberry fudge.