Great to see the original Saucier’s Apprentice has joined our society of heretics. Having not been born yesterday, he notes that Joe Baum was way ahead of Berkeley’s hometown heroine in pushing for seasonal, local cooking, at the Four Seasons half a century ago. He gets in another good whack, too, before losing his way en route to South America on the cheap. What this all indicates is that while the food coven has always had only two techniques — back-stabbing and circle-jerking — bloggers may finally be setting it free. The deep-pocketed observer can dis away and still eat lunch in her town again.