Headline Ambien: “Reminiscences”

I know a little bit about how political the assignment of reviewers to books can be at a certain publication, so I would really love to know the back story on the choice to assess the latest from one of the most gifted writers at that publication. Maybe his book really is the trudge she evokes in summaries like: “It would be difficult to exaggerate the Edenic profusion.” (WTF is a cheap reaction, I know, but in this case I would add an extra F.) But a writer of that caliber and a book of such interest to his food-obsessed city really deserved a reviewer with, shall we say?, some heft. Maybe a book to her credit at the least? I never thought I would say this, but where the hell was David Kamp?